Preserving the Traditions and Cultural Values ​​of Sumba Ikat Weaving

Kawan GNFI, besides being famous for its stunning panoramas and pristine natural surroundings, Sumba Island, located in the East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) Province, also possesses an ancestral heritage worthy of preservation: Sumbanese ikat woven cloth.

Sumbanese ikat woven cloth is one of the cultural riches of NTT Province. This ikat weaving is an exotic Indonesian fabric created by artisan weavers from East Sumba. Sumbanese ikat woven cloth is not something that can be made casually, and the craftsmen are not just anyone.

The types and patterns of Sumbanese ikat woven cloth have long been popular due to the uniqueness of their production methods and the materials used. The motifs and process of making Sumbanese ikat woven cloth take a relatively long time, taking four to six months for a single large piece of woven cloth.

The allure of traditional ikat weaving has been popular for centuries, and its traditions are still partly preserved by Sumbanese women. They handle the entire ikat weaving process, from selecting the motif and preparing the materials (thread and dye), to the weaving process, and finally, to producing a piece of cloth.

Efforts to Preserve the Value of Sumbanese Ikat Woven Fabric

One of the efforts to preserve this traditional weaving is carried out by the Sekar Kawung Foundation. The foundation's main goal is to strengthen the roots of textile culture in Lambanapu and Mauliru Villages in East Sumba, restore the environment with fiber plants and natural dyes, and build a sustainable economic foundation in these villages by making weaving a key focus.

"The high price of Sumbanese ikat weaving is not only due to the lengthy processing time, but also related to the ancestral values ​​and culture of the ikat weavers themselves. While it is indeed expensive, Sumbanese ikat woven fabric has its own market," explained Chandra Kirana, Chair of the Sekar Kawung Foundation, in an online discussion titled "Caring for Nature, Caring for Heritage" on Tuesday (September 22, 2020).

He explained that Lambanapu Village is home to abundant cotton plants, the raw material for the fabric. Weavers use cotton to spin yarn. They plant cotton trees around their yards, near rice fields. But now, Ibu Kirana—as we call her—explained that fewer and fewer people can spin yarn from this cotton. This is likely because the process is lengthy and there are fewer and fewer people who can spin.

"That's what we're trying to do, so that these young women can maintain the meaning of Sumbanese ikat weaving so that it doesn't stray from its spirit. Because one of the spirits of Sumbanese ikat weaving is the production process and its cultural values," she explained.

She also mentioned that there are indeed obstacles to this weaving tradition. The presence of synthetic ikat fabrics sold in several cities in the Sumba region has also significantly diminished the enthusiasm of young Sumbanese women to uphold these ancestral values.

However, Ibu Kirana once again assured them that the value of authentic Sumbanese woven fabrics cannot be replaced by anything, therefore, significant efforts are needed to raise public awareness about preserving this cultural heritage.

When asked about local government intervention in preserving this cultural value, Ibu Kirana explained with a heavy heart that there has been no full involvement from the government or any other relevant parties in empowering the community in Sumbanese ikat weaving.

Another aspect of Sumbanese ikat weaving that the Sekar Kawung Foundation highlights is the dyeing process, which uses natural dyes from trees or plants that are currently quite rare, and trees that produce fibers to bind the fabric.

Several drought-resistant fiber-producing trees include the Randu Alas (Bombax ceiba), Widuri (Calotropis gigantea), and Gewang (Corypha gebanga).

The Gewang tree, as he explained, is a tree that only bears fruit or flowers once in its lifetime, then dies. This palm-like plant is also known by other names in various regions, such as Gabang (Ngaju Dayak), Pucuk (Betawi), Pocok (Madura), Ibus (Sasak), and Silar (Minahasa).

Gewang grows widely in the lowlands up to an altitude of around 300 meters above sea level, adapting to and tolerant of dry land and climates, such as those found in the East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) region. However, unfortunately, Gewang trees are now very rare in NTT.

He also stated that his current activities are a form of moral encouragement to preserve Indonesia's natural wealth and cultural heritage. The consultant also admitted to frequently self-funding to explore various regions in Indonesia.

He also mentioned that several generous individuals have provided financial support for the Sekar Kawung Foundation's programs and activities.

*This news reported by GNFI / Good News From Indonesia https://www.goodnewsfromindonesia.id/2020/09/27/menjaga-tradisi-dan-nilai-budaya-kain-tenun-ikat-sumba and originally written in Bahasa Indonesia.